The California Zephyr I
Chicago - August 2022
Some travel dreams take years to come true. Mine began in 2015, when I learned about the California Zephyr—often dubbed as one of the most scenic train rides in North America. I kept it bookmarked in the back of my mind. It was the kind of plan that felt like it might always stay just that: a plan. I attempted to do it in 2019 unsuccessfully. But in August 2022, I finally did it.
The adventure began in Chicago, a city my wife and I had explored earlier that May. This time, our visit was short—just enough to revisit a few favorite places. We had breakfast before heading to Chicago Union Station, where the Zephyr journey would begin. I distinctly remember hearing The Proclaimers’ “I’m Gonna Be (500 Miles)” just before we left for the station. And even though we had 2,438 miles (3,924 km) ahead of us, I took it as a sign—a good omen, if you will.
Chicago's skyline from the navy pier
The journey is the destination!
I love trains. There’s just something magical about them. You sit still, and the world moves for you. No airport chaos, no seatbelt signs—just time to slow down and watch the surroundings go by.
We booked a roomette, which is exactly what it sounds like: a tiny room with two surprisingly comfy seats that convert into beds at night. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner were included—and the best part? Mealtimes were communal. We were assigned to shared tables with other passengers (mostly retirees with great stories), which turned out to be one of the most unexpectedly charming parts of the trip.
We also planned to take advantage of the Zephyr’s stops and broke up the ride with two overnight stops—one in Denver, Colorado, and another in Truckee, California, just before the final stop in Emeryville. These mini layovers turned the train ride into a broader journey, with time to reconnect with family and soak in some local sights.
Flatlands and lounge views
After leaving Illinois, the landscape rolled into what some affectionately (or not-so-affectionately) call the flyover zone—a blur of flat fields that could be Iowa, or Nebraska, depending on your guess and the nearest sign (or google maps when we had signal).
At one point, we stopped for about ten minutes to let a freight train pass. I had never seen anything like it—so many cars going by one after another. It was such a basic moment, but I found myself just watching, almost hypnotized by the steady rhythm of it.
We passed the time in the Sightseer Lounge, a glassy, panoramic car with wraparound windows, swivel chairs, and travelers quietly reading, chatting, or staring off into the cornfields. The lounge was mostly full, but every now and then we found a spot to sit, have some wine, play card, write postcards and share our impressions about the trip so far.
The sightseer lounge—best sit in the house!
Next stop: Denver and Biolder!
Thanks for joining me on this long-awaited adventure. If you’d like to see more short clips from this trip, feel free to check out my instagram 📸🎥 @wanderlust_aku, whereI shared pictures and videos that don’t quite make it into the blog.
