After a five-hour drive from Rome—complete with car-aoke (ha!) performance and a few indulgent stops for gas station snacks—I finally arrived in Mola di Bari. There, I met up with my wife and began our adventure through the southeastern heel of Italy—Puglia. With Mola di Bari as our home base, we took day trips to the coastal gem Polignano a Mare, a brief stop in Monopoli, and the ancient cave city of Matera. Here’s how it all unfolded.

Mola di Bari

Mola di Bari turned out to be the perfect base to explore Puglia. Affordable lodging? Check. Friendly hotel staff who gave us tips on where to eat and what to avoid? Double check. An awesome view from our hotel? You know it!

But the real magic started when the sun dipped below the horizon. Suddenly, the town turned into a vibrant piazza party. Kids darted through alleyways, old men played cards, drank laugh loudly and smoked - like in the movies - and teenagers hung out in groups that seemed straight out of a coming-of-age movie. The town square became a living room for everyone—filled with chatter, laughter, and a lot of gelato.

Hot days, cool nights at Piazza XX Settembre!

I appreciated Mola di Bari for its calm atmosphere compared to tourist-heavy spots like Matera or Polignano a Mare. We discovered affordable and excellent restaurants, including Hostaria, where we enjoyed some of the best and most affordable seafood I've had. They offered house red and white wines for around 4 euros per carafe—a true taste of Italian enjoyment! I couldn’t resist leaning over—broken Italian and all—to ask the table next to us if I could snap a photo of what might have been the most amazing charcuterie board I’ve ever seen. They smiled and nodded, saying 'Certamente!' (At least I think that’s what they said.).

I think it's the mixed appetizer Hostaria

Places in Mola di Bari:

Our Hotel: 106 maison de charme
Restaurants:

Hostaria
ParlaPiano Bistrot - Miscelazione in Cucina
Ristorante Van Westerhout

Polignano a Mare and Monopoli

Polignano a Mare was like walking into a postcard. The town was full of whitewashed houses, narrow streets, and dramatic cliffs overlooking the Adriatic Sea.

We spent a relaxing afternoon at Lido Cala Paura, a rocky beach area where the water was so clear it felt criminal not to jump in. It took some hunting, but we found a little patch of rock to claim as our own and cooled off in the sea.

Later, we had lunch at Da Vittorino by Vecchi Marinai, a restaurant perched with a perfect view of the ocean. Do yourself a favor and try the Primitivo red wine whenever in Puglia.

After an awesome lunch we went searching for dessert and explored the city a little more

After exploring Polignano a mare, we hoped on a train en-route to Monopoli, where we walked around the city but forgot to take pictures!

Places in Polignano a mare:

Restaurants:

Da Vittorino by Vecchi Marinai
Ristorante Antiche Mura

Places to go for a swim:

Lido Cara Paura
Piscina naturale
Lama Monachile (incredibly crowded)

Monopoli:

Restaurant

Metae - Ristorante Monopoli

Awesome music store:

Disco Shop Detommaso

Matera

Matera was... intense. First of all, it was 40°C (104°F), so it felt like we were walking on the sun. But wow—what a place. This is a city that was literally carved out of stone. To escape the the heat, we decided to explore the old aqueduct system - Palombaro Lungo

Despite the heat, Matera made a strong impression, renowned as a filming location and UNESCO World Heritage site. We dined at La Grotta del Gusto, a restaurant carved into the rock, a surreal and beautiful experience that photos can't fully capture.

Before leaving Matera, we made a final stop at Belvedere Luigi Guerricchio, also known as the 'Tre Archi,' a terrace offering awesome views to the Sassi di Matera. It was the perfect spot to pause and take in the views of the city.

Our time in Puglia ended faster than we expected, but it left a big impression. From quiet coastal towns to ancient cave cities, every stop had something special.

And while this trip might be over, I’m lucky enough to be coming back to Italy soon and enjoy the spring before the summer rush.

I’ll be sharing more from this trip on my instagram 📸🎥—would love to have you along!

Road-tripping Italia VI: Puglia & Napoli