Before visiting the Azores, I knew almost nothing about them. They weren't a destination I had been planning for years or one that had been sitting on my travel list. The idea actually came from a good friend who had been there before. One conversation was enough to spark my curiosity, and before long we were planning a trip.

The timing couldn't have been better. It was October 2021, when the days around Boston were getting noticeably shorter and the temperature was beginning to drop. International travel was finally starting to feel possible again, even if it still came with a few extra steps. The thought of escaping for a few days to a group of volcanic islands in the middle of the Atlantic sounded pretty appealing. The fact that there was a nonstop flight from Boston to Ponta Delgada made the decision even easier.

Ponta Delgada

Like many places at the time, the Azores required a COVID test upon arrival. So after landing in Ponta Delgada at around five in the morning, we joined a line of sleepy travelers waiting to be tested. Knowing we'd be exhausted after the overnight flight, we had booked an Airbnb before continuing on to Furnas the following day.

After a solid nap, we spent the rest of the day wandering around Ponta Delgada, enjoying fresh seafood and excellent local wine.

That evening, the streets filled with students dressed in black academic gowns, singing and celebrating. I had no idea what the occasion was, but it immediately reminded me of the flash mobs that were popular back in the day, except this was clearly something much more organized and very Portuguese.

The next morning, after breakfast, we stopped at Piscinas do Pesqueiro before heading inland. I jumped into the North Atlantic for the first time and couldn't stop thinking about where I was. Just a few months earlier I barely knew where the Azores were on a map, and now I was swimming in the middle of the freaking Atlantic ocean!

After lunch, we pointed the car toward Furnas, ready to discover the side of São Miguel that had convinced my friends we needed to come in the first place.

Furnas

If there was one thing my friends insisted we had to do, it was try the famous Cozido das Furnas. Several restaurants in the area cook this traditional stew underground, using the volcanic heat that naturally rises from the earth. It seemed like the perfect way to experience a place called Furnas (volcanic valley with geothermal activity).

We headed to A Quinta and managed to get a reservation for seven that evening. With a few hours to spare, we checked into Terra Nostra Garden Hotel , got some much-needed rest after the overnight flight, and waited for dinner.

It was worth every minute. The stew arrived loaded with beef, chicken, pork, potatoes, yams, carrots, cabbage, and chouriço, all slow-cooked using the island's geothermal heat. On the side came grilled morcela (blood sausage) served with pineapple, a combination I never would have imagined but absolutely loved. We paired everything with a bottle of Terras de Lava Syrah, produced on the island, and by the end of the meal I completely understood why my friends had insisted we come here.

The next morning we headed to Salto da Farinha for one of the most memorable hikes of the trip. Since we had two cars, we left one near Moinhos de Água, where the trail ends, and drove back in the other to the trailhead. It made for a much more enjoyable hike without having to retrace our steps.

The scenery was spectacular. Lush vegetation, waterfalls, dramatic cliffs, and the Atlantic always on site. But what I remember most happened at Poço Azul.; there were people swimming completely naked. Naturally, I found this absolutely hilarious. After plenty of giggles (mostly from me, because apparently I'm still five years old) we eventually jumped into the water ourselves. It was refreshing after the hike. I'll let the photos do the talking on this one.

After the hike, we stopped at Chá Gorreana, Europe's oldest tea plantation. We wandered through the factory, learned how the tea is produced, sampled a few varieties, and, of course, left with tea to take home. It was fascinating to find a working tea plantation in the middle of the Atlantic.

Then came Tony's. If I had to pick one restaurant that completely exceeded my expectations, this would probably be it. The food was outstanding, the prices were incredibly reasonable, and the atmosphere felt less like a restaurant and more like sitting down for dinner at someone's home. Sometimes that's exactly what makes a place memorable.

One of the perks of staying at the Terra Nostra Garden Hotel was having access to its famous thermal pool. The next morning, we made our way there for a relaxing soak.

The water gets its distinctive brownish color from the high concentration of dissolved iron and other minerals naturally present in the hot springs. It might look unusual at first, but once you're in, it's incredibly relaxing. To make it even better, it started raining lightly while we were soaking. Something about sitting in warm, mineral-rich water as the rain gently fell made the whole experience weirdly comforting.

One piece of advice, though: bring a swimsuit you don't mind sacrificing. The iron-rich water will almost certainly stain it, and those stains are surprisingly difficult to remove.

The gardens alone are worth taking your time for. I'll spare you the hundreds of photos I took... but here's a small picture spam

The next day we headed to Miradouro da Ponta da Madrugada before making our way down to Praia do Lombo Gordo. Some places are easier to show than to describe, so I'll let the photos do most of the talking here.

After the hike, we headed to Piscinas Naturais das Calhetas da Maia to reward ourselves with a refreshing dip in the Atlantic. Getting there turned out to be part of the adventure. The volcanic rocks were incredibly slippery, and all of us were carefully testing every step, doing our best not to end up with a twisted ankle… or worse. While we were awkwardly inching our way across the rocks, I noticed a fisherman sitting nearby watching the whole scene with an amused smile. He eventually packed up his gear—perhaps deciding we were about to scare away all the fish—and casually walked right past us. Flip-flops on. Not a single slip. Not a moment of hesitation. He moved across those wet rocks like they were a perfectly dry sidewalk while we looked like a group of newborn deer trying to figure out how legs worked.

Needless to say, finally making it into the water felt like an accomplishment. We definitely enjoyed that swim even more after earning it.

After a full day outdoors, a hot shower and a good dinner felt well deserved. We ended the day at Ponta do Garajau, where I finally tried lapas grelhadas (grilled limpets), followed by a delicious grilled fish and, because there is apparently always room for dessert, a generous serving of rice pudding.

It was a pretty fitting "see you in a bit" to São Miguel. The next morning we flew to Terceira, to continue exploring the Azores, but I'll save that adventure for the next post.

In the meantime, here's the map I used throughout the trip, with all the places I visited on São Miguel and Terceira. Hopefully it'll give you a few ideas if you're ever lucky enough to visit these beautiful islands.

Thanks for joining me on this adventure through São Miguel! Make sure to check out my Instagram 📸🎥 @wanderlust_aku, where I shared pictures and videos that don't quite make it into the blog. And stay tuned for the next chapter of this Azores journey as I explore Terceira.

The Azores: São Miguel

Ponta Delgada

Furnas

Vienna